Spanish Road Trip Part 1: Asturias and Cantabria

Spanish Road Trip Part 1: Asturias and Cantabria

Last year, out of nowhere (or maybe not – thank you God!) an idea popped into my head that the kids and I should spend a month living in a different country. Homeschooling offers this beautiful flexibility, so why not use it? Given we’re all learning Spanish, Spain was the obvious choice. Luckily for us, our amazing tutor helped us plan a wonderful autumnal 4-week Spanish road trip from Asturias and Cantabria in the North to the Andalucian South.

Those four weeks in Spain changed us – all of us. It strengthened the kids’ independence and confidence, and I came home braver, willing to tackle tasks I’d been hiding from for years. We packed in a lot over the 30 days, and there were many complex logistics, which meant that we were forced to take one day at a time. Thus, for what felt like for the first time, I was totally present in each moment, not worrying about what was to come: that was for another day. It also meant we had to work as a team, each with their own role. Without the kids, I would have struggled, and they in turn blossomed in their new identities. As such, the adventure was both blissful and a growth opportunity. By far the hardest part was coming home.

I wanted to keep a record of our mini expedition to offer advice for others wanting to take a similar trip. So, over the next few posts, I’ll outline our daily activities, including where we stayed and any logistical recommendations. This first part looks at our time in the North of Spain, throughout the regions of Asturias and Cantabria. It was without doubt our favourite part of the trip.

Day 1: Dune de Pilat, Southwest France

Luckily, we live close to the Eurotunnel, so an early start meant that we could be in France by 9am heading south. There was a bit of a panic when we realised our route would take us through the low emission zone of Rouen, which requires the display of a Crit’Air sticker in your car. Fortunately, James was on hand in the UK. He purchased the sticker online and sent through the correct paperwork. This meant we were covered if we were pulled over and questioned by the French police (which thankfully we avoided!).

So, nine hours, a few stops and a new appreciation of the quality of French pastries later, we arrived at our first destination: the impressive Dune de Pilat. Located just southwest of Bordeaux, this is the tallest sand dune in all Europe. Eager to finally move our limbs, we quickly ditched our shoes and scrambled up the soft sand, falling instantly in love with this peaceful place. At the top, the view across the still Atlantic with rays of light filtering through the clouds above was awe-inspiring. My teens enjoyed reclaiming their childhood by rolling down sections of the dunes, their joy clear to behold.

Finally, we dragged ourselves away to find our first Air B&B location: Le Logis du Val in Salles. Set in the woods, it was a little gite with its own hot tub: the perfect place to rest after a long travel day. Sadly though, at this point I realised one of my car doors refused to lock: not an ideal situation for a month’s road trip… But there was nothing I could do then, so after researching possible VW garages in northern Spain, I gave up worrying and crashed into bed!

Day 2: San Vicente de la Barquera

We were up and out of the gite early and on with our journey south. It was only 4 ½ hours from Salles to San Vicente de la Barquera: our chosen base in Cantabria. We’d booked to stay in this pretty little Spanish seaside town for 11 nights, in the fantastic Casa Ancla (another Air B&B find). I would 100% return to this gorgeous spot with its cute harbour, long sandy beaches and the castle on the hill, all set against the backdrop of the magnificent mountains of the Picos de Europa.

We spent the afternoon settling into the house and for me, a run along the beach to stretch my legs. On my way back across the bridge to the town, I noticed a large number of hikers fully laden with backpacks. Then I spotted the scalloped shell road marking, and realised San Vicente de la Barquera was on the northern route of the Camino de Santiago: something that has been on my bucket list for ever.

Day 3: A Surfing Lesson

Monday morning and so started our road schooling experience, with a morning of work in the house, followed by an afternoon of exploration of our new location and a two-hour private surfing lesson for the kids: possibly the coolest of PE lessons!

San Vicente de la Barquera is well known for its surfing, with excellent waves and top-notch surf schools. We opted for Merón Surf, who I’d highly recommend. Their surf instructors were super friendly, supportive and knowledgeable. Both children loved their time on the water and asked if they could return. Harry especially wanted to improve his surfing skills, as for once his sister had more previous experience, and he was not used to being outshone by her at anything sporty!

However, if you fancied trying a more relaxing experience, all the surf schools hire out paddleboards for use on the adjacent calm harbour.

Day 4: Santillana del Mar & VW Garage!

The next day started off in much the same way, with schoolwork completed in the morning, whilst sat in the garden and balcony soaking in the sunshine.

In the afternoon, we had a plan to visit the gorgeous historic town of Santillana del Mar, but first we had some essential admin to do: a visit to the VW garage. On the way, between the three of us, we worked out how we would explain the situation in Spanish to the mechanics. It was lucky we did as our initial contact spoke not a word of English. Somehow, we muddled through, with all of us trying out sentences to explain our predicament. Thankfully, it worked; I was genuinely proud of our efforts, imperfect as they were. They took the car in for tests, worked out the part they needed and ordered it in for replacement in a few days.  

Finally, we could start the fun part of our day: exploring Santillana del Mar. The medieval town is beautiful with cobbled streets, baroque mansions, old towers, balconies bursting with flowers and a renaissance palace. Just wandering the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and sampling its food delights was a real pleasure. The Colegiata de Santa Juliana in the town’s centre is a Romanesque church built on the site of an 870 AD monastery, with striking cloisters and carvings. At only 3 euros for entry, it’s worth a little exploration, as is the town itself. It helped us restore peace after the slightly stressful garage experience!

Day 5: Descent of the River Sella by Canoe

The Descenso del Sella or descent of the River Sella by canoe, was one of our favourite activities of the whole trip. After finishing our morning’s work, we drove to Zenit Experiences, in Arriondas. Autumn was the perfect time to do the Descenso as the weather was still sunny but there were few people around. However, if you prefer a more festival vibe, head over on the first Saturday of August. Then, the river is packed with the thousands of competitors taking part in the Descenso del Sella canoeing and kayaking race 20km downstream from Arriondas to Ribadesella.

But in late September, it was just the three of us for our safety briefing. In one double and one single canoe, we set off, with our valuables safely enclosed in a waterproof container provided by Zenit. Our descent, 16km downriver, with the stream pushing us gently along, set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Picos mountains, was one of the most peaceful and beauty laden experiences I’ve ever had.

The mini rapids along the route were also a lot of fun, producing much giggling. Along the route, there are various chiringuitos (mini bars), where you can pick up beer, water or snacks; and small islands, where we saw people stopped for a picnic lunch in paradise.

At a quiet and especially picturesque spot, we stopped for a refreshing swim in the icy crystal-clear waters.

After several hours, we arrived at the end, and were met by the huge smile of our guide from Zenit, who packed up the canoes in his van and drove us back to the start. Along the way, he talked nonstop about the area, the race and life in Asturias. It was like a free Spanish lesson with a new friend!

Day 6: Comillas and Gaudí

Our fourth afternoon of exploration was in the colourful town of Comillas, with its unique and quirky architecture, pastel-coloured mansions, and Gaudi’s first foray into architectural design: el Capricho de Gaudí. We had a tour of this flamboyant building, a summer playpad for the Marqués de Comillas’ sister-in-law’s brother.

It is well worth booking a tour rather than viewing it on your own, as the guide points out the many musical and nature-themed details woven into the design to reflect the owner’s interests. For example, the windows play a piece of music when you open and shut them; outside, wrought iron treble clefs and staves adorned balconies positioned like miniature theatre boxes, to watch the owner’s piano compositions being performed within; and there are carved sunflowers everywhere. It was our first encounter with Gaudí, and we were seriously impressed!

After our tour, we attempted to visit the Palacio de Sobrellano, but sadly they were fully booked for the afternoon, so I would recommend booking ahead if you’re keen to see this impressive neo-Gothic palace. Instead, we wandered around the town and the kids were excited to discover a chocolatería, where they relished some delicious churros and hot chocolate!

Day 7: Senda del Oso, the Bear Trail

On Friday, we opted for a full day of exploration as the kids were keen to cycle the Bear Trail or Senda del Oso, two hours drive away in western Asturias. This is a 28km cycle ride along an old mine railway through towering mountains, rickety wooden bridges and forests.

It’s also home to the Cercado de los Osos wildlife sanctuary, a haven for the endangered Cantabrian bear. Sadly, we just missed seeing the bears (they went into hiding at the noise of our arrival…) but the cycle route was yet again set in the most magnificent of locations, with cute little tunnels through the rugged mountainsides.

At the end of the trail, the bike company (we used Bicisendadeloso) collect you and your bikes and return you to the start. It’s relatively flat and so is suitable for the whole family, and with a tasty picnic, makes for a great day out. The only advice I’d give is to take warm clothes and gloves as it’s substantially colder up in the mountains, which left us with icy fingers!

Day 8: Canyoning in the Picos de Europa

As Saturday rolled around, we had space for another full day’s activity and this time, we selected canyoning! We’d tried this high-octane sport twice before, so feeling confident, I opted for an intermediate level 2 experience in the stunning Picos de Europa mountain range. Alongside our two excellent guides Kike and Rodrigo from Diver River Adventures, we walked down to a river bursting with water, flowing at an incredible rate. Our first task was to cross it. Anxiously I watched as first Kike, then my precious children made it unscathed to the other side. I, however, was the weak link. Hitting the icy cold of the water, I panicked and flapped around, requiring a rescue rope to pull me onto the bank. If nothing else though, I was now wide awake, full of adrenaline and ready to go!

Next, we hiked up the sheer mountainside to the start of the canyon. From here, we proceeded to abseil, jump, slide and swim our way down the steep canyon.

Thanks to the heavy rainfall the night before, the water levels were very high, which made the experience more like a level 3! It was extreme. Once, half-way down an abseil, my feet slipped and headfirst I careered into the powerful waterfall, hanging under its fast-flowing waters. With a huge amount of effort, I slowly managed to regain my footing to abseil, exhilarated and proud, to the bottom.

My adrenaline junkie teens loved the adventure, revelling in its intensity, and, despite my mistakes, so did I. Kike and Rodrigo were extremely competent and great fun. If you’re fond of extreme sports, this is most certainly for you, but if you’d like a gentler introduction, I’d recommend selecting the level 1 family option!

Day 9: Covadonga, Picos de Europa

On Sunday, we drove up to Covadonga, deep in the Picos de Europa mountain range. As we approached the settlement, we spotted the striking Basilica de Covadonga, perched on a hill against the vivid blue sky and surrounded on all sides by soaring mountain peaks. It was one of those awe-inspiring moments, which makes your heart beat that little bit faster.

Before exploring this spectacular building though, we attended mass in the spectacular Santa Cueva: a chapel carved into a natural cave. Nestled inside the rock, listening to the Spanish mass (bits of which we understood) whilst looking out to the mountains beyond, felt exceedingly sacred and special. It left me with a smile on my face which remained for the rest of the day.

Next up was yet more beauty. We parked the car and caught a bus up to the Covadonga lakes (only accessible by bus or private taxi to protect the region). It’s worth the effort though, as this place is exquisite.

We walked the Lakes of Covadonga circular 5k route (fully signposted), beneath eagles circling overhead, through the quiet mountain peaks, past the glistening glacial lakes, all whilst listening to the sound of the cowbells. It was a glorious walk and comes highly recommended.

Day 10-12: More Surfing and Palaeolithic Cave Paintings

After an action-packed weekend, our week started with a gentler rhythm. We spent the morning at home working and in the afternoon, the kids were back out on the waves with another surfing lesson (they’d have been happy to do this every day!), followed by a wander around the town and a quick visit to the Castillo del Rey: San Vicente’s castle on the hill.

The following day it rained solidly so we cracked on with more schoolwork and I took the car in to have the new part fitted. We finished with our first meal out at La Ostrería San Vicente, booked by Rosie, as she practised her burgeoning Spanish speaking skills. The food there was divine!

For our final afternoon of exploration, we visited the Caves of Altamira. Here, in 1879, a scientist and his daughter discovered some of the best preserved palaeolithic paintings of bison, horse, deer and other animals. To preserve this precious artwork, it is no longer possible to visit the original caves, but instead, a full-size recreation of the Altamira cave paintings has been produced. It is well worth a visit to wonder at these ochre-and-black animal paintings created around 14,000 years ago.

Sadly, this marked the end of our stay in the North. The next day, we drove South to the ancient city of Toledo for yet more adventures, which I’ll cover in my next Spanish road trip post.