Spanish Road Trip Part 3: Southern Andalucia
Spanish Road Trip Part 3: Southern Andalucia
This post follows the final part of our month-long Spanish road trip. We’d spent some glorious time in the North adventuring in the natural beauty of the Picos de Europa mountains. Next, we meandered our way south, exploring the ancient cities of Toledo, Mérida, Seville and Cadiz. Our final section was along the south of Andalucia, stopping to experience the delights of Málaga and Granada from its passionate flamenco to the majestic Alhambra.
We were especially excited for this part since it would mean reuniting with my husband James, the final member of our crew, after nearly three weeks apart! So, here’s what we got up to on days 20-30 of our road trip.
Day 20: Vultures, Ronda and Setenil de las Bodegas
We set off early since we had a long day ahead. Our destination was Málaga, which was only 2.5 hours drive, but we’d been recommended several places on route that we simply couldn’t miss. This increased the total drive time to 4 hours, but it was most definitely worth the additional effort!
Grazelema
First on the recommendation list was Grazelema. This is one of those picturesque Andalucian ‘pueblos blancos’ (white villages) set in the foothills of the Sierra del Pinar mountains. Wandering around the cobbled streets with their whitewashed houses and colourful flowers spilling over balconies is a real treat. In the summer, there’s also a great outdoor municipal pool.
But we were there for the access to the Sierra del Grazelema Natural Park, and particularly its griffin vulture population. We arrived and parked the car, immediately discovering a map by the road with various walking route options.
Selecting one, we set off for a delightful walk amongst fir trees and granite outcrops, with stunning views on all sides.
Circling above us were countless giant vultures, each with 8.5ft wingspans! It was an incredibly impressive sight, and given the size of the colony, one that any visitor to the area can expect to experience.
Ronda
Next on the plan was Ronda. The town is set dramatically above a deep gorge, separating the ‘new’ 15th century part of the town from the old Moorish section, with a spectacular bridge (Puente Nuevo) spanning the 120m chasm between the two. This lofty bridge is such an iconic Spanish landmark I felt we really must see it.
Finding the road down to the viewing point at the bottom of the bridge was somewhat tricky. Eventually, we found the co-ordinates for the car park (36.738923, -5.170316). This is accessed from a tiny road (Calle del Prado) off the main road through Ronda. Driving down to the car park needs to be done slowly. It’s steep in parts, rocky and single track, so you may well meet cars coming back up. But we managed it fine in our trusty VW Tiguan! The navigational stress was worth it for the outstanding view.
You can also walk down to the bottom of the bridge, taking the El Tajo Gorge trail from the Old Town or La Cuesta del Cachondeo path from the Plaza de María Auxiliadora. I wished we’d had longer to explore this quaint and pretty town, perhaps having a coffee in its picturesque plazas or mooching around its shops. It’s worth spending 3-4 hours here if you’re visiting for the day. But we had more sights to see before Málaga, so we got back on the road!
Setenil de las Bodegas
Having seen many a photograph of this unusual little village built into the cliffside, we simply couldn’t miss this picturesque spot! Rightly so, as we loved it! It really is an extraordinary place where homes, restaurants and bars sit nestled underneath giant rocky overhangs.
We parked at the top of the town and wandered down the steep slope to explore this special place, with its air of calm tranquillity. It comes highly recommended.
After our last stop, we finally made our way into Málaga to stay at our favourite of all the Air B&B rentals, in the Vialia Playa apartments.
Day 21: Exploring Málaga
After an early morning run along the promenade at Huelin beach, we excitedly hopped in the car to drive to the airport. There, with a tearful reunion, we met with the final member of our family of four, James!
It was so good to have him back with us. I thought it might change the dynamic having another adult around, in that the children would stop taking so much responsibility for the logistics. Happily, this didn’t happen. Instead, they were keen to show off their new skills to their dad at every opportunity!
That afternoon, we walked into the centre of Málaga to explore the harbour area and the Paseo de España, a palm-lined promenade with exotic plants and colourful parrots.
Next, we hiked up the hill to the Gibralfaro Castle for a mini explore. The views from the top were stunning, and you could see right into the circular bullring.
Exiting the castle, we turned left to wander down the beautiful far side of the hill and onto the old Roman amphitheatre. This is free and sits in a central position in the city, surrounded by cafes and restaurants.
Finally, after a little browse of the meandering streets and interesting shops, we headed home. Later that evening, we ate at a wonderful tapas restaurant called Tasca Láska. The food, especially the paella, was divine!
Málaga is a superb city; underrated by us Brits in my opinion. I think we often associate it with package holidays on the Costa del Sol: a place to arrive at and move on from. But it’s so much more than that. It has a real charm, historically and culturally rich with its passionate flamenco scene, many art museums and buzzing nightlife.
Day 22: Picasso Museum and Flamenco
The 12th October and the National Day of Spain, so there was a real energy in the city, with live music, dancing and shows.
We’d purchased tickets to the Picasso Museum though, so headed there first. Although we’d booked a specific time slot online, we still had to join a humungous queue on arrival: it took about an hour to get in! It was worth it though.
It’s an excellent museum showcasing hundreds of his works, from his original highly detailed, realistic paintings to the cubism and abstract art for which he became famous. We spent an hour and half wandering around and soaking in all this creative inspiration.
After an afternoon’s relaxation, we walked back into the city for our second flamenco experience. We opted for Alegría, and it was truly outstanding.
The passion of the dancing and the raw, soulful singing and haunting flamenco guitar moved me to tears. It was a thing of beauty which touched my heart. I would highly recommend it if you’re in Málaga, and book early so you can bag front row seats.
Day 23: Málaga Cathedral and Granada
As it was Sunday, we went for mass in the Málaga Cathedral. This is another beautiful building packed with exquisite treasures, which is most certainly worth paying to explore. To have mass here was extra special. By this point in the trip, we’d been exposed to so much splendour and opulence in historic buildings, that we’d started to become immune to its effects. So, it was lovely to see the cathedral through the fresh eyes of James, who excitedly moved from stunning sculpture to impressive painting, chattering away about his views on the pieces! Unfortunately, as it was mass, we weren’t permitted to take photos, so you’ll have to trust me on the beauty held within this Gothic cathedral!
From here, we drove to our final destination: Huétor Santillán, high up in the mountains above Granada. It was a beautiful spot, but the food offerings were somewhat limited! So, we headed down into Granada for a wander around and dinner at another top rate restaurant called Aisushi.
Day 24: The Alhambra
The Alhambra, for me, was one of the must do activities of the trip. I panicked when I came to book our tickets online, as even six weeks in advance and all the regular tickets had sold out! You need to book months ahead of your trip to guarantee entry. All that was left were expensive group or private tours.
We pushed the boat out and opted for a private tour and it turned out to be the best decision. Our guide – Susana Muñoz from AsierGuide – was exceptional. She introduced us to many a detail and interesting story that we would otherwise have missed.
The Alhambra, known as the Red Castle, situated high on a rocky hill protected by mountains and forests on all sides, was initially a military zone.
It became a royal fortress-palace complex for the founding Muslim king of the Nasrid Kingdom in the mid-13th century.
Now, you can wander around the leafy courtyards and walkways, listen to the water trickling in its fountains and streams, and marvel at the outstanding Islamic architecture. You really need a day to explore this wonderful site. Remember to bring your passport or you won’t be able to get into the most interesting parts!
Sections of the Alhambra Complex
There are various sections, including:
- The Alcazaba: the remnants of the fortified military complex. Its watchtower (Torre de la Vela) provides wonderful views over Granada.
- Nasrid Palaces: a complex of palaces from various rulers. Highlights include the magnificent intricately embellished cupola; the idyllic Patio de los Leones, with its central lion fountain and multitude of columns; and the abundance of Islamic art, such as geometric patterns, horseshoe arches and intricate mosaics.
- Charles V Palace: inside you can find the Fine Arts and Alhambra Museum.
- Generalife: a summer palace for the sultans of Granada surrounded by lush gardens, tree-lined pathways, patios and fountains. It’s a beautiful place to wander. We also loved dipping our hands into the clear water running down the sides of the Water Staircase.
- Medina: the remains of an ancient city inside the Alhambra walls, originally with workshops, public baths, ovens, silos and official’s houses, all to serve the needs of the palace.
After a full morning of discovery, we refuelled with a late lunch at the Hotel America. This was inside the Alhambra, set in another beautiful courtyard.
Days 25-27: Relaxation and Gypsy Caves, Sacromonte
After a huge amount of sightseeing, we needed some downtime, relaxing in the villa, hiking in the nearby mountains, playing golf, and eating long lunches!
One thing I couldn’t miss however was an exploration of Sacromonte, the Roma gitano (gypsy) neighbourhood. A marginalised community, the gitanos made homes for themselves outside the city in the hillside district opposite the Alhambra.
Here in tiny cave dwellings burrowed into steep cliff walls, the impassioned flamenco dancing and singing developed. All were involved: from the tiny children to their grandparents.
Sacromonte is a great place for a stroll up the steep roads and past a series of whitewashed cave houses. We also visited the Cave Museum of Sacromonte. This ethnographic museum gives a brilliant insight into life in the cave-dwelling population.
Eleven caves have been reconstructed as they would have been 100 years ago, each with its own theme, such as a basket-weaving cave, a typical dwelling, the flamenco space, or a textiles workshop.
It’s an excellent recreation of the lives of this community and the hardships they must have encountered. The poignant family photos on the walls and clear descriptions make the place feel very lived-in and real.
The flamenco cave moved me the most. The Sacromonte gitanos were renowned for their unique flamenco style, layered with a defiance against their oppression. You can hear it in the haunting strains of the music and see it burnt into their eyes.
Day 28: A Final Long Lunch
On our last day, on James’ request, we drove up a tiny, precipitous dirt track on a quest to find a highly rated local restaurant. With my heart in my mouth, I was convinced this route couldn’t possibly be right. But finally, the road stopped abruptly. Ahead of us was our destination: Cocina Salvaje (Wild Kitchen).
A long lazy lunch was on the menu for our day. It was one of the best meals I have ever eaten. All the food was cooked fresh on the open fire or clay oven, with organic ingredients picked straight from the garden.
Whilst our stomachs were replete with divine flavours, the magnificent views sated our eyes! It was the perfect end to an exceptional 4-week journey for which I am so grateful.
Day 29: Madrid and France
Our last day in Spain, we rose early and drove the four hours to Madrid. Here, I dropped James and the children and continued with the drive for a further seven hours, arriving back in France in the early evening.
James and the children meanwhile explored Spain’s capital before flying home. They did one of James’ speedy ‘let’s-see-a-whole-city-in-a-few-hours’ walking tours! They looked inside the grand Almudena Cathedral and walked past the stately Royal Palace with its views across the beautiful Campo del Moro Park.
Next, they wandered into the Lepanto Gardens to see the Felipe IV statue in the Plaza Oriente. From here, they strolled to the Plaza Mayor for some lunch. Finally, they walked to the Plaza de Colón to see the biggest Spanish flag in the world! And then it was onto the airport for them…
Day 30: Home Again
It took me another 7.5 hours of driving and a trip on the Eurotunnel before I could join them back home on English soil after a wonderful 4 weeks in España!
